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      <title>James Williams - far-west-2024</title>
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          <title>Lessons learned about motorcycle travel</title>
          <pubDate>Sat, 11 Jan 2025 16:29:00 +0000</pubDate>
          <author>James Williams</author>
          <link>https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-lessons/</link>
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          <description xml:base="https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-lessons/">&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;jamwil.com&#x2F;farwest&#x2F;&quot;&gt;Far West 2024&lt;&#x2F;a&gt; series.&lt;&#x2F;em&gt;&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I’m a member on an old-school overlanding forum called
&lt;a rel=&quot;external&quot; href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.horizonsunlimited.com&#x2F;hubb&#x2F;&quot;&gt;Horizons Unlimited&lt;&#x2F;a&gt; which is full of folks who’ve ridden
their motorcycles to every corner of the earth. When I threw my itinerary for Far West out there to
seek advice, one of the old-timers opened his comment with this:&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;“I’m having some difficulty imagining your trip as it’ll unfold on the ground. You’re covering a
lot of ground, but don’t appear to be actually &lt;em&gt;seeing&lt;&#x2F;em&gt; very much, mainly because so much of
what’s worth seeing along your route requires either long side trips, getting off the bike and
walking around, or both.”&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;— markharf,
&lt;a rel=&quot;external&quot; href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;www.horizonsunlimited.com&#x2F;hubb&#x2F;route-planning&#x2F;vancouver-palm-springs-calgary-3-a-105165&quot;&gt;The HUBB&lt;&#x2F;a&gt;&lt;&#x2F;em&gt;&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I responded to the effect that I knew it was an aggressive itinerary, but three weeks was all I
could pull off and that I’d have to make do. It was a motorcycle trip after all—shouldn’t that be
the main activity?&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Ummm, no. Not really.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h2 id=&quot;lesson-1-slack&quot;&gt;Lesson 1: Slack&lt;&#x2F;h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;To qualify this a bit:&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;ol&gt;
&lt;li&gt;I still had a blast, and&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;the somewhat impromptu 3 day hiatus in Palm Springs compressed the riding schedule to its limit,
and I chose this tradeoff knowing it would make the ride more challenging.&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ol&gt;
&lt;p&gt;But the wise man was right. I spent a lot of time riding past places that I would have loved to have
spent a day or two exploring. The motorcycling, fun as it is, is not actually the point. Moreover, I
didn’t leave any slack to accommodate unexpected issues like not realizing my chain was about to
snap until I was stuck at the Grand Canyon. Oh, mistakes were made.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;If I subtract the three days in Palm Springs, I covered an average of 380 kilometres per day. That
doesn’t sound like much in the context of four-wheeled road trips, but they are big days on a bike
when you’re avoiding the freeway. My Garmin estimated 5-7 hours in the saddle most days, and that’s
before you factor in a fuel stop or two, lunch, points of interest, trying and failing to find a
god-damn banana over and over again, and coffee breaks. There is also hard work involved—packing and
loading the bike, setting up and tearing down camp where applicable, bike maintenance, sitting
around in laundromats, on and on. It was easily 10 hours of logistics each day. Sustainable for
three weeks with a good break in the middle, but I wouldn’t do it this way again.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;On the next trip, I will cut the target mileage-to-time ratio in half. 200 km per day average on an
asphalt trip, less if aiming for dirt, which is the other thing I would have done more of if I had
had a more relaxed time budget. If you’re using this as a guide it’s important to note that these
are overall averages, but I would aim to ride only 4 or 5 days each week, so the actual mileage on a
riding day would be higher.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h2 id=&quot;lesson-2-gear-parts-packing&quot;&gt;Lesson 2: Gear, parts &amp;amp; packing&lt;&#x2F;h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I did alright in this department. You can see my packout in my earlier post:
&lt;a href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;jamwil.com&#x2F;farwest-2024-packing&#x2F;&quot;&gt;Packing Lucia for a four-season motorcycle camping trip&lt;&#x2F;a&gt;.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;


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  alt=&quot;Lucia on day one, packed with gear.&quot;
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    alt=&quot;Lucia on day one, packed with gear. Note: image is hyper-compressed with javascript disabled.&quot;
    title=&quot;Lucia on day one, packed with gear. Note: image is hyper-compressed with javascript disabled.&quot;
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&lt;&#x2F;noscript&gt;
&lt;figcaption&gt;Lucia on day one. The tail bag setup was tilted too far forward but I got it sorted for
day two.&lt;&#x2F;figcaption&gt;
&lt;p&gt;This all worked out okay. I can’t say enough about how solid Kriega bags are, and the best idea I
had was to stick a mountain bike handlebar bag on the bars as a quick stash for random stuff like
ferry tickets, GoPro batteries, cash&#x2F;change, and ear plugs.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Next time I will look to swap out the 12 litre side saddles with the 18 litre variants that mount to
the same base, as that is free real estate as far as the ride goes. I will scrap either the 10 litre
or 20 litre tail&#x2F;tank bag in favour of a 9 litre Kriega backpack. There is value in keeping your
most important possessions on your person, and a camera mount on the shoulder strap would have been
perfect.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The shoe situation was pretty dumb. I ended up bringing mid-top Arc’Teryx hiking boots, but I will
invest in a more versatile and less bulky pair of all-purpose trekking shoes on the next trip. I
felt quite goofy wearing hiking boots while eating a $55 scallop risotto in Palm Springs when we
went out for a nice dinner.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Other minor adjustments I would make:&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;More compact and better quality cookware;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Smaller fuel canister;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Small size, leak proof containers for oil, spices, etc;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Don’t need a roll of toilet paper unless you’re truly wild camping—a funeral-sized Kleenex pack
will get you out of a bad situation;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Rope? Come on. I literally brought 90 feet of rope. What the actual fuck did I think I was going
to need 90 feet of rope for;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Jeans are needlessly bulky and heavy—I’d probably go with a lightweight, versatile pant;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;iPad wasn’t needed since I had a laptop and a kindle already;&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;I’m still not sure about the hatchet. I only lit one fire, but it was nice to have the option, and
there’s something about having one in parts unknown that makes you feel safer.&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;p&gt;One thing I found hilarious when packing so tightly was how quickly I came to treasure single serve
items like a good napkin stack or zip-lock bag. These can only be bought in household size packs
which aren’t so helpful when you just need, like, one.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;As for parts and tools, I made the boneheaded assumption that, America being America, I could buy
what I needed if, when and where I needed it. Not the case. Not when you’re up against the clock
(see previous section).&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;While I had the basic set of tools, what I ultimately needed and didn’t have was a socket wrench
pair large enough for the wheel axle (needed to adjust chain tension), and a spare chain. I will be
adding those to my toolkit and bringing spares for all bike-specific, consumable&#x2F;breakable&#x2F;bendable
parts next time (chain, brake pads, oil filter, air filter, shift lever, brake levers
and clutch lever). It also goes without saying that I won’t ever again start a 7,000 km trip on a
chain that’s almost EOL. As I said—boneheaded.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h2 id=&quot;lesson-3-the-world-is-immense&quot;&gt;Lesson 3: The world is immense&lt;&#x2F;h2&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I did some things badly. But I did a lot of things well. I climbed a sketchy hill above a lighthouse
to get a proper view of the mighty Oregon coastline. I found my favourite place in the world at the
northern trailhead of California’s Lost Coast. I rode the Pacific Highway to Santa Monica and got to
see it in all its splendor before the terrible fires took so much from the people there this week. I
split lanes on the freeway in Los Angeles and off-roaded in the Arizona desert. I took a 6-hour
roundtrip train ride on the oldest operational steam engine in America. I rode on the Million Dollar
Highway in Colorado, through a 1 in 150 year Mormon Cricket swarm in Utah, and through hail in
Wyoming. I had the time of my life, so far.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Ted Simon, in his 1979 book &lt;em&gt;Jupiter’s Travels&lt;&#x2F;em&gt;, wrote this about motorcycle travel:&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;“In spite of wars and tourism and pictures by satellite, the world is just the same size it ever
was. It is awesome to think how much of it I will never see. It is not a trick to go round these
days, you can pay a lot of money and fly round it nonstop in less than forty-eight hours, but to
know it, to smell it and feel it between your toes you have to crawl. There is no other way. Not
flying, not floating. You have to stay on the ground and swallow the bugs as you go. Then the
world is immense.”&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Travelling this way, you don’t have the option to grab a coffee for the road. You get it to stay,
and you sit with the locals in their favourite cafes, and you take it slow. They come talk to you
because everyone is curious where you’re going and how far you’ve come. None of the smells pass you
by.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Here’s to the next one, Ted.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;</description>
      </item>
      <item>
          <title>Far West 2024 Photo Drop</title>
          <pubDate>Wed, 26 Jun 2024 16:40:00 +0000</pubDate>
          <author>James Williams</author>
          <link>https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-photos/</link>
          <guid>https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-photos/</guid>
          <description xml:base="https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-photos/">&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;jamwil.com&#x2F;farwest&#x2F;&quot;&gt;Far West 2024&lt;&#x2F;a&gt; feature.&lt;&#x2F;em&gt;&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;A few days before I departed, I purchased a used FUJIFILM X-T10 camera to try to
learn some photography basics and document the trip. The slower pace this
afforded as I occasionally stopped to compose a scene was worth it alone.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Here are a few of my favourite photos from my three-week motorcycle adventure
through the American west.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;</description>
      </item>
      <item>
          <title>Packing Lucia for a four-season motorcycle camping trip</title>
          <pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2024 23:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
          <author>James Williams</author>
          <link>https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-packing/</link>
          <guid>https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-packing/</guid>
          <description xml:base="https://jamwil.com/farwest-2024-packing/">&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Part of the &lt;a href=&quot;https:&#x2F;&#x2F;jamwil.com&#x2F;farwest&#x2F;&quot;&gt;Far West 2024&lt;&#x2F;a&gt; series.&lt;&#x2F;em&gt;&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The objective today is to cut as much useless cruft from the packing list as
possible. I need to outfit myself to ride through very hot temperatures in
Southern California and Arizona, and very cold temperatures in Wyoming and
Montana. It’s only May and even in the more temperate Pacific Northwest,
overnight temperatures dip quite low. I also have a few days scheduled with
friends in Palm Springs, so I’ll need enough kit to look presentable in regular
society (to the extent that that’s possible for me).&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I need some basic tools to fix a puncture or adjust the suspension. This is
America, so a CAA&#x2F;AMA membership should negate the need for spare parts, but I
would want to bring spare shift&#x2F;clutch&#x2F;brake levers, oil filters and other
model-specific items if venturing further.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;


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  alt=&quot;Behold, lots of shit on a rugh.&quot;
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    alt=&quot;Behold, lots of shit on a rugh. Note: image is hyper-compressed with javascript disabled.&quot;
    title=&quot;Behold, lots of shit on a rugh. Note: image is hyper-compressed with javascript disabled.&quot;
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&lt;&#x2F;noscript&gt;
&lt;figcaption&gt;Behold, lots of shit on a rug.&lt;&#x2F;figcaption&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Let’s break it down by bag. I have five pieces of soft luggage that strap to the
bike and provide about 84 litres of capacity in total. I can also strap bulkier
items like my tent on top of the luggage.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h3 id=&quot;kriega-os-12-x-2-saddlebags&quot;&gt;Kriega OS-12 x 2 saddlebags&lt;&#x2F;h3&gt;
&lt;p&gt;These are positioned lower and more central on the bike, so I’ll put the
heaviest and least fragile items in here like tools and camping hardwear. These
bags are also easier to access without unstrapping anything, so I put a few
quick-access things here as well, just minding that if I hit the dirt, anything
breakable in the side luggage will get a little smashy. Likewise, it’s not a
good place for a first aid kit assuming if I fall and hurt myself, whatever is
in the side luggage will be underneath a 450 lb. motorcycle and difficult to
access.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h4 id=&quot;right-hand-bag&quot;&gt;Right-hand bag&lt;&#x2F;h4&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Primus burner&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Fuel canister&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Stainless pot&#x2F;plate set&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Small skillet&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Ceramic mug&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Collapsible pour-over coffee filter&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Salt, pepper, olive oil, ground coffee&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Fork, spoon, pocket knife&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Tongs (you laugh, but you’ve never known the pain of dropping a nice cut of
steak in a fire pit)&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Camp soap and scrubber&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Small garbage bag&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Roll of toilet paper&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Shower flip-flops&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Tent footprint&#x2F;light tarp&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Kindle&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;h4 id=&quot;left-hand-bag&quot;&gt;Left-hand bag&lt;&#x2F;h4&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Basic tool roll&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Multi allen key tool (Ducati likes allen keys)&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Stop &amp;amp; Go T-Handle Tubeless tire repair kit&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Stop &amp;amp; Go mini air compressor&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Tire pressure gauge with deflator button&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Chain lube (every thousand kilometres gotta keep that thing saucy)&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Gorilla tape&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Multi-tool pocket knife&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Headlamp&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Flashlight&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Rope&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;6 ft. webbing strap&#x2F;tie-down&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Giant Loop Armadillo spare fuel bag, 2 gallon (Lucia has a small tank,
especially for an 803 cc twin)&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Ducati user manual&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Summer riding gloves&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Toque&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Cap&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;h3 id=&quot;kriega-us-30&quot;&gt;Kriega US-30&lt;&#x2F;h3&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Large tail bag. I’ll put my clothing in here as well as my laptop, and I’ll try
to avoid heavy items to keep the weight centered over the footpegs as much as
possible.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Jeans&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Shorts&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Buttoned shirt&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Lightweight hoodie&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;T-shirts x 4&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Thermal base layer, top and bottom&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Socks and underwear x 5&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Swim trunks&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Quick-drying travel towel&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Laptop and peripherals&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;h3 id=&quot;kriega-us-20&quot;&gt;Kriega US-20&lt;&#x2F;h3&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Medium-sized tank bag. I’ll put soft camping items and miscellaneous bulky items
in here. More weight over the tank helps keeps the bike stable under load.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Medical kit&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Lightweight down sleeping bag&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Inflatable sleeping mat&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Inflatable pillow&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Down quilt (for such a range in temperatures, it’s easier and more versatile
to do a light sleeping bag and layer on a quilt when needed)&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Arc’Teryx low-top hiking boots&#x2F;shoes&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;iPad&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Honestly, shoes are the toughest thing to reason about. They are both bulky and
heavy, and for three weeks of varied activity, including dinners and nights out,
I would love to bring a pair of sneakers that I can dress up more. I just don’t
have the space, but I recognize I may need to keep an eye out for a pair of
shoes along the way that collapse to a small size but can look sharp in a pinch.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;h3 id=&quot;kriega-us-10&quot;&gt;Kriega US-10&lt;&#x2F;h3&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Small tail bag that can attach to the larger ones. The US-30 in this case. I
leave some room in this one for groceries.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Water bottle&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Light toiletry bag&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Patagonia Nano-Puff jacket&lt;&#x2F;li&gt;
&lt;&#x2F;ul&gt;
&lt;h3 id=&quot;attached-items&quot;&gt;Attached items&lt;&#x2F;h3&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Strapped directly to the tail using Rok Straps over the US-30 are the tent,
hatchet, and light folding chair. Opulent, I know.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I am going to bring my Hippo Hands hand guards on this trip given the likelihood
of rain and certainty of cool temperatures in the mountains. They’ll be awkward
in the hotter climates, but they’re too large to pack away so I think it’s
easiest to just fix them on at the outset and leave ’em.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I’ll keep my FUJIFILM X-T10 camera over my shoulder generally, and a GoPro Hero
11 mounted on a rigid mount above the wind screen facing forward. I also have a
Hero 7 on a flexible clamp mount I can use for B-roll. Rounding it out on the
handlebars is a Garmin Zumo XT Navigator that frankly deserves an entire blog
post of its own to unravel the dark wisdom of the Garmin software engineer.&lt;&#x2F;p&gt;</description>
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